
Konopiste is a castle from the fourteenth century located approximately 40km from Prague. It’s most well-known resident (at least in world history standards) was Archduke Franz Ferdinand. Originally a hunting castle, the estate was purchased by Ferdinand after his cousin Rudolph visited it, knowing it would suit the man. Now, Konopiste is a beautiful estate run by the state, which contains the castle, it’s surrounding gardens, the “pond,” and a rose garden. The property came into possession of the state after Ferdinand’s assassination in 1914, but was used for various purposes throughout both world wars and the communist eras before it was turned into an historical site and restored.

Today, you can visit Konopiste by taking a train to Benesov and walking the approximate 2km to the castle (through the very scenic route of its gardens). It is a destination of many in the Czech Republic due to their connection to Ferdinand’s wife, Duchess Sofia (who was a Czech woman). While the tours are a tad expensive, there are four offered, and the information and views are worth every koruna. There is no photography allowed inside the castle, so getting glimpses at the Archduke’s life requires the fee. On any day you can visit the North or South Salons (two separate tours), the private flat of Franz Ferdinand, or go on a hunting tour. There is even a range that can be used on the property.

Traveling with my cultural attaché and the Turkish interns that joined us this week, we got a deeper look into the lives of the Archduke’s family by taking a tour of his flat. In my time in the Czech Republic, I have become fascinated with this man because of the information I have learned regarding his place in history, but the new information acquired here just piqued my interest more. Actually, my time at Konopiste made me question even more why the only this we know about Archduke Franz Ferdinand is that his assassination started World War I. While this is clearly true and is by far the reason world history finds him important, the complexity of this man is often lost. In fact, it took me coming to the Czech Republic to even learn that he was not the only one that died the day he was assassinated. His wife, Sofia, was also killed that day, orphaning their 3 children. You can actually view the dress she was wearing that day on the tour (at least Tour 3, of the private flat).

While you get a brief introduction to his political and military life, the focus of the tour is on his private life. The walls of the castle are lined with his trophies, which indicate the importance of him choosing a hunting castle to reside in. Ferdinand made his first animal kill at the age of 8 and was an avid hunter until his death at age 50, killing some 275,000 animals all over the world. Each trophy is carefully marked in his home with the date and the place, but some get more distinctions, like the number of the kill or who was with him. Some of these trophies are actually from his family (such as one that was his daughter’s from age 3).

Still, the more private areas of the estate are quite homey. The children’s playroom is covered in Sofia’s art (the daughter and oldest of the siblings). There are books and model boats (which the boys were quite fond of). In the study, there is even a portrait of Emperor Franz Josef I as a young man. What struck me at that was that I don’t think I’ve ever seen the man depicted as young. All other pictures I have ever seen were from near the end of his rule, when he was at least in his eighties.

Like many stories about the Czech people, the story of Franz Ferdinand and his family is tragic. While they were quite happy at Konopiste, from what can be determined, this was also a place of sanctuary for them. Ferdinand’s marriage to Sofia was never fully accepted. She was a countess when he began courting her and Franz Josef disapproved the first time he asked for her hand, but he did not give up. A year later, he approached the emperor again and received permission to marry her. This raised her status to Duchess, which still placed her below the status of the Archduke. As a stipulation of their marriage, Ferdinand and Sofia also had to renounce their children’s right to the throne, which is what led Charles to become emperor after Ferdinand’s assassination and the death of Josef.

The death of Ferdinand marked the beginning of some very tragic ends for his family. Sofia travelled with Ferdinand for his trip to Sarajevo after leaving their children from a short holiday. In the attempt to kill both the next heir to the throne and his right-hand man in the military, the conspirators failed. While they were successful in taking out Ferdinand, they missed his general and killed his wife. This orphaned their three children (Sofia, the oldest, still a teenager). They would leave Konopiste for a castle owned by Sofia’s family (the Hohenbergs), where they would be cared for by their teacher and Ferdinand’s step mother. They survived the war, but WWII would not be so kind. While Sofia married a German man, her brothers were not so lucky in their position. Late in the war, they ended up in concentration camps that they did not survive. Sofia lived until her eighties and her daughter is still alive today (and in contact with the caretaker of Konopiste).

The chance to learn more about the family and story of Archduke Franz Ferdinand was quite fascinating. While there we also walked down to the “pond,” though I’m not quite sure how anyone could categorize it as such, and spent some time in the rose garden, where we were acquainted with several peacocks. As is the luck of the
weather, we spent the last bit of our time at Konopiste trying to outrun a storm. We did not succeed, but a little rain never hurt anybody. The problem is that the brief, strong storm caused damage to the train tracks leading back to Prague. We spent about three hours at the station before we decided to find a new way back (as this type of delay is extremely unusual in this part of the world). Our group ended up with an Uber back to the city, which was definitely an interesting experience, but it did allow us to see some of the villages just outside of Prague, which I really liked. Making it back much later than anticipated, it was nice to make it back to my dorm for some much needed sleep.
